Monday, 23 March 2009

Hanoi is Shut - Well it was for us!

Hi All,

You'll appreciate the title of this post more later...
I know it's been a while since the last post - a recurring theme these days - nevertheless, I'll take you on a whistlestop tour of what we've done over the past few weeks.

From the beach resort of Nha Trang, we went north on the overnight bus
12 hours cramped in a tiny seat that was supposed to be a bed stopping every few hours for the drivers to take on more 'cargo' to the ancient city/town of Hoi An. Hell for me but Caroline loved it and felt like she was on a travelling sleepover!

Hoi An is like stepping back in time to olden Vietnamese times, lovely old buildings and an ornate bridge to prove it:


It is famous for its tailor made clothing, where, in about 12 hours, you can have all manner of things made to measure. It is also where the Top Gear presenters got their ridiculous outfits on the TG Vietnam special. We spent 3 nights in Hoi An and despite our best efforts to avoid buying too much - had suits/skirts/dresses/shoes/shirts/ties made..... and then also had to buy a bag to put it all in! We are now not the lightest travelling backpackers you have ever seen!!

We also visited the My son temples, which, though not as impressive as Angkor Wat, were still well worth the effort.

From Hoi An, we traveled 5 hours north (130KM - see what I mean about the buses?!?!) to the city of Hue, which used to be the capital of Vietnam. Here we looked round some of the old rulers' tombs, and also the old city. These too had sustained a heavy battering during the war, but were still very interesting:

In Hue, we also found an Indian curry house. It was exactly the same as back home. In every aspect. I'll leave it at that! ;)

From Hue, we took a 12 hour train north to Hanoi - the nation's capitol.

To say that we got off on the wrong foot with Hanoi, is something of an understatement.

We arrived in the dark and the rain at 5am on a platform, somewhere near the centre of the city. We knew where we wanted to stay as we had looked it up in the Bible (or Lonely Planet as it's also known), therefore when a taxi driver came up and we told him where we were going and asked the price and he said "I have a metered taxi" we were in raptures. However, 2 minutes later, when the meter was spinning like the Tasmanian Devil and we were randomly driven in the opposite direction in which we wanted to go, our optimism started to wane.

After a frank discussion with the driver, which involved me opening the door and demanding him to stop, he agreed to take us to the hotel for a fixed fee of 30,000 dong ($2 - still too much but we were tired).

He arrived at blatantly the wrong hotel and had just called his mate and told him we were coming so to open up so he could get a commission! ARRRGGGHHH!!!

On seeing this we got out and refused to pay, so the driver and his friend tried to kidnap our bags. Having released the bags, and my hand from the boot, I threw 20,000 dong at him for petrol and we stormed off into the dark leaving them standing there swearing at us.

From there we had to try to find a hotel in the dark using only the rather inadequate map from the Lonely Planet which not only had streets missing, but also incorrectly named.

Unfortunately, it turns out that the Hanoi-ans, as well as being criminals, are also lazy, as there was not a hotel for under $100 per night (10x our budget!) where we could wake the night porter/receptionist. We did find a couple of rooms, that could have doubled as kennels for exorbitant rates from the few places that happened to have their shutters half up - notably these establishments sported bewildered looking tourists outside swearing after a hastily disappearing taxi. Therefore we trudged around Hanoi for the best part of 2 1/2 hours before finding somewhere to stay.

After a power nap, we decided that the best part of Hanoi to see next would be the road out, so we hastily booked a 2 night trip to Halong Bay (where they end up in the Top Gear special).

That turned out to be a fantastic experience with stunning views of the bay, cruising around on a luxury junk boat.

No prizes for guessing which are my legs!!

We spent one night on the Junk Boat awakening on Halong Bay, and one on Monkey Island in a hut (with aircon!) awakening to a monkey fighting a dog outside our door! We had a really good time although we were partly stalked by some Australian Jehovah's Witnesses.

So, returning from Halong bay, brings me neatly to my last post regarding the rat (still with me..? Good) The next morning we flew to Hong Kong for 3 nights, and had a great time meeting up with Jim and Gareth. The picture below is taken on Lamma Island where they live, before the night out in LKF:

From HK, we took a flight to the Philippines, and the island of Cebu, where we have spent the past 10 days doing more relaxing and Scuba Diving. This morning we saw Thresher Sharks and Manta Rays! Fantastic diving! We don't have the pictures yet, but we will put them up either on facebook or here at some point.

We have a flight to Donsol tomorrow to search for whale sharks, and had better leave it at that considering the internet cafe actually closed 15 minutes ago and we're going for dinner and an early night having gotten up at 4.45 for a breakfast appointment with the aforementioned marine life.

Bye for now.

Wednesday, 11 March 2009

He's Not Rat, He's Siberian Hamster...

Just a very quick post to tell you about an experience I had this evening whilst investigating what we should have for dinner.

We were trying to do a cheap, authentic Vietnamese evening, for our last night in Hanoi (and Vietnam), so we had some 'bia hoi' (cheap draught beer) at 3,000 dong a glass (25,000 dong to the pound) and decided to investigate the adjacent noodle stand. As I went over to enquire what the dishes were, and how much, I saw a rat sneak up behind the woman, put his paws on the edge of a bowl of chili dip and lean in to have a taste!

Needless to say, we decided against street food tonight, and went to a restaurant instead!

I guess it's one of those where you had to see it, but it certainly tickled me. As a brief epilogue, as we left the stand, we saw the woman covering up what remained of her chili sauce with a newspaper.

More on our journey from Saigon up to Hanoi and beyond in a day or two when we are in a position to upload photos.

Next stop is a visit to Apple Technical Support on Lamma Island in Hong Kong - there may be beer involved there too.

Bye for Now.

R